Gail Garber of Hawks Aloft and Holbrook Travel put together an itinerary that would take us to a number of habitat types to give us a representative sample of the birds that thrive in these different habitats. Our group consisted of twelve enthusiastic folks from NM, CO, and CA, with experience ranging from beginner to expert. Our guide, Cristhian Urena, was a delightful fountain of information about the birds, flora, fauna, weather, and whatever else we wished to learn about Costa Rica.

Our destination for the first three nights, the renowned Selva Verde Lodge, sampled the Caribbean lowlands. Typical birds of this hot, humid habitat include Scarlet Macaw, Red-lored Parrot, Red-headed Barbet, Montezuma Oropendola, Silve-throated Tanager, Bare-throated Tiger-heron, toucans, kingfishers, and, of course, many hummingbirds. This extended stay allowed us time to visit the nearby Tirimbina Biological Reserve and the La Selva Biological Station. Tirimbina is a private reserve with a long, suspended walkway up into the canopy where much of the rainforest life resides. The evening also included an informative talk on the lives of bats. La Selva is a center of biological research for scientists around the world and welcomes groups of birders like us. Highlights included Semiplumbeous Hawk, Chestnut-backed Antbird, and Snowy Cotinga.

Our next destination involved a long drive to the Central Pacific Coast, including a stop at the mouth of the Tarcoles River. There we embarked on a boat tour to search for water and shore birds, as well as the enormous American Crocodiles that lurk in the river and lie on the banks. Tarcoles hosts an amazing diversity of wildlife including many mangrove species such as the Mangrove Hummingbird, Mangrove Warbler, American Pygmy Kingfisher, as well as many shore birds, Scarlet Macaws, and the main attraction for tourists – the crocodiles.

After the boat tour we climbed a torturous dirt road to the remote Macaw Lodge. Located in a transition zone between tropical humid forest and tropical dry forest, more than 350 species of birds are found in the area. This elegant lodge is set among lovely ponds and gardens on a farm that produces sustainable cacao and fruit. Two nights gave us the opportunity to hike the forest trails and leisurely check the gardens for forest and water birds. Delightful sightings included Scarlet-rumped Tanager, Grey-cowled Wood-Rail, Least Grebe, Northern Jacana. Green Ibis, and more.

Our final destination for three nights was the Suenos del Bosque Lodge in the remote Savegre Valley, high in the cloud forest. Originally settled in the 1950s as a hunting and fishing retreat, this valley now attracts many birders with a single goal – the Resplendent Quetzal. A large group of birders staring into the forest was a giveaway that Quetzals were near. Two long tail feathers sticking out of a hole in a tree indicated a nest with a male inside. Patiently waiting, we were eventually rewarded as the bird came out and a female appeared. Eventually another pair was located nearby. The day after, a pair was spotted flying near the lodge. Cristhian somehow found them perched in the forest nearby, giving us wonderful views of both male and female in their preferred habitat.

With attention focused on the Quetzal, we saw fewer species in this habitat. But some that caught our eyes include Ruddy Treerunner, Louisiana Waterthrush, Torrent Tyrannulet, Black-capped Flycatcher, and Long-tailed Silky-flycatcher. It’s a lot to pack into nine days of birding. All told we collectively logged about 180 species. But the trick is to enjoy everything around you and not stress over finding the most species. There is a lot more to enjoy after all: Coatis, agoutis, frogs, insects, spiders, snakes, even poisonous ones, and the peace, quietude, and beauty of the rain forest.

We learned of the country’s commitment to conservation, sustainable farming and ranching practices, maintaining clean water, and green energy production. Costa Rica has thrived in recent times by encouraging ecotourism and welcoming people like us to come and enjoy their country. Enjoy we did! Perhaps enough to return again and again to sample even more of the country’s beauty and abundant birdlife.